Shigar Valley branches off the Indus about 30 kilometres east of Skardu. The Shigar River runs through poplar-lined fields and apricot orchards that have been cultivated here for centuries. The valley feels untouched in a way that increasingly few places do.
At its heart is Shigar Fort: a 17th-century palace that served as the seat of the Amacha dynasty for 400 years. The Aga Khan Trust for Culture restored it meticulously in the late 1990s and early 2000s, turning it into a heritage hotel that is, without exaggeration, one of the most extraordinary places to sleep in Pakistan.
Beyond the fort, Shigar is the entry point for the Sarfaranga Cold Desert: an otherworldly landscape of sand dunes rising directly beneath the permanent snows of the Karakoram. The juxtaposition is difficult to comprehend until you're standing in it.